What You Should Know About Pet Education

Most people love animals above all else. It does not matter if it is a dog, a cat or a rabbit. Some people also like animals that you cannot keep in your home or garden. These include lions, penguins or zebras. However, if you decide for a common pet, should not disregard the education

From education to dressage 

You can visit a dog school with your dog. There he learns how to behave properly, runs well behaved on a leash and even the basic commands such as sitting, sitting, or staying internalized. But what about animals that you admire in movies, for example? All these animals had to go to an animal school. Especially when it comes to animals that shoot big Hollywood films or are seen more often in series. Without an animal school it would not be possible to make a film with a camel or a lion. The animal schools are run by professional animal trainers guided and the animals learn there what they have to do. Of course, the animal trainers have to work with a lot of patience and time – another way would be unthinkable. Of course, there are also animals that learn their exercises very quickly and other animals need a little longer. In some schools, animals are not only trained for filming and television, but some schools also offer pet training for private individuals. 

Little tricks for clever four-legged friends 

If the cat or the bunny has a confident character and the ride is not too far, then you can treat yourself to such a day with your pet. Maybe at the end of the day the cat can give paws or open the front door. However, you should not ask too much of your pet, just of animals that are reluctant to leave their environment, you should consider the training out of the house again. But with a few treats, time and patience, you may be able to teach your pet some tricks and feats even without schooling animals. 

Proper Nutrition for Dogs

Many a dog owner will have noticed that her four-legged friend eats almost everything. Particularly interesting is the food, which lies with master or mistress on the plate and also the leftovers in the trash can find a grateful customer, if not paid attention. But the dog is not omnivorous. The ancestors of the dog, the wolves, are grouped into the group of carnivores. This does not mean that the wolf only eats meat. On the one hand he eats his prey animals completely, so with skin and hair, on the other hand, he complements his diet with berries, grasses, herbs and roots. This is how the wolf covers its nutritional needs. This nutrient requirement also has the domestic dog, whose genetic pole differs only slightly from that of a wolf. 

Species-appropriate food for domestic dogs 

In principle, it would be the most natural form, if the dog can hunt himself from time to time to a rabbit or a chicken. He is then full for days, no longer takes up food. On the one hand, this is not feasible for many dog owners, and moreover, live animal feeding is not permitted in Germany for animal welfare reasons. Of course, the dog would eat the animals if they are already slaughtered. Again, the mess in the garden or in the apartment would be enormous. Therefore, food is now produced that contains all the nutrients that the whole prey animal, together with its stomach contents, yields. In such industrially produced food, the vitamins and minerals are included, moreover, this food should consist mainly of meat. 

The meat content of dog food 

The meat content needs, as already mentioned, not 100%. A share of about 70% is completely sufficient. In these 70%, however, the internal organs of the animals should be included. These are often listed as “animal by-products” and are viewed critically by many dog owners. Of course, this may mean that many parts have been processed apart from the muscle meat, but it also indicates that the whole animal has been processed. The dog owners should be more critical in the cereal share be. Although a dog needs carbohydrates, its pancreas is not designed to consume 50% or more of its food. The proportion of grain should therefore ideally be 20-30%. A small amount of fruits or vegetables completes the menu. 

Cultivating a Safe Home for Pets

Pets are the favorite roommates for many. Accordingly, the welfare of the little ones is important to them. Since a dwelling does not correspond to the natural environment of animals, some measures are often necessary to provide them with a habitat in which they can develop, but in which they are also safe from life-threatening dangers. Depending on the animal, very different measures are possible, if only because each animal moves differently in space. While most animals have to be protected from dangers on the ground, birds, for example, still have potential dangers at the height that one must try to eliminate. 

 
Of course, if the animals have some free access, such as cats, they cannot be saved, of course. But at least you should create the best conditions at home. 

Protection against injury from other household items 

If the animals roam free in the home, it is important to secure freely movable and heavy objects – especially those above head height of the animals. For example, it quickly happens that a cat starts something on the bookshelf that can hit the other. The same is true for small animal cages, here care should be taken that the animals cannot fall from a great height, but also that all components are fixed so that animals do not fall uncontrollably or are killed by part of the cage. 

Find hidden dangers 

While some dangers are obvious, others must first be sought. Before you let the animal run free, therefore, the whole apartment should be inspected, not only where the animal moves, but also in the levels above. Is there anything that could be attractive for her as feed, but contains dangerous ingredients? Generally, you should leave nothing edible open, as animals basically need different food than humans. The negative consequences of wrong food do not have to show up immediately. 

 
For small animals there is also a great risk to life through the house electrics. Here many accidents have become known. Sockets, devices and cables should not be accessible if possible, so that they cannot be nibbled on. Larger networks can be resolved if possible, which today mainly Internet lines. Since many cables are not very decorative anyway, one should think about getting a wireless router into the house and wirelessly connect all Internet-enabled devices. Because on the floor, the cables are unthinkable for animal housemates. 

Hamster Jogging Balls, Galore!

You can still find them: the jogging ball. Also known as hamster ball or race ball, it provides amusement under uninformed and irresponsible hamster owners, in animal welfare circles, however, it is because of obvious disadvantages as animal welfare and harmful to health! 

Often these balls are shown in films (eg in the animated film “Bolt”) – that movies often have nothing to do with reality, everyone should be aware and thus also that hamsters have lost nothing in such balls. But why? 

The hamster has no control over his direction in this ball 

Change of direction, slowing down, avoiding – an impossibility. For obstacles – such as a chair leg – collision is inevitable. And often with serious consequences: The abrupt collision can lead to sprains and fractures, even traumas. Rolling the ball down a staircase – not thinking what the little hamster in the worst case threatens. 

Poor air circulation in the ball 

Hamster balls usually have only very small louvers. For adequate ventilation here is never worried. Through the efforts of the hamster to get out of the bullet, he has to make an effort – with no chance of escape. Due to the accelerated respiration he gets in return hardly any fresh air. This is clearly reflected in the cycle of the small animal. 

Danger by getting stuck  

For adequate ventilation, the slots are too small, but often enough for a toe or a paw. Due to the uncontrolled running in the ball, the paw of the hamster can quickly get caught in such a slot. If this happens, the hamster is in great pain – he suffers! 

Damage to the muscles 

Hamster balls have, in addition to the disadvantages already mentioned, another disadvantage: their size. With a diameter of 12 to 18 centimeters, they are simply far too small for a hamster to walk in WITHOUT a crushed back. If the hamster is regularly and permanently inserted into such an animal tormenting bullet, postural defects such as herniated discs, curvatures and unbearable pain are inevitable. Please note that this can happen even if the impeller is too small!  

Limitations of natural perception 

Due to the plastic, the hamster can neither properly see nor smell and hear its surroundings. The hamster wandering aimlessly around the globe, bumping into objects, etc. may seem “funny” at first glance, but it is not under any circumstances! The hamster is exposed to permanent stress in a running ball, he cannot use his natural senses, cannot determine the direction and all sounds sound different and thus completely foreign. The fact that everything is taken as a foreign, the hamster wants to hide only. As a result, he runs even faster, more often attacks on objects, etc. Everything swings up each other. Appropriate outlet WITHOUT stress definitely looks different! 

The quiet little place is not so quiet  

Hamsters are naturally pure animals. Your village is located in a suitable place where it could interfere with neither the foraging, nor the food supply. Nevertheless, paths and aisles are also marked. Anyone who has watched his hamster has already noticed that they can also release urine while running in the wheel. And this can also be the case in the anti-animal running ball. The hamster runs in his own feces and urine, he pollutes himself and the feces can clog the already too few ventilation slots anyway. 

Basic Rules of Cat Education

Cats are idiosyncratic animals who prefer to act on their own heads rather than fulfill their owner’s wishes. Therefore, one could quickly assume that cat husbandry and education are mutually exclusive. But that is not the case. Of course, a cat is not as easily educated as a dog, but with a few simple tricks, it’s easy to teach the velvet paw a few rules of behavior. 

The most important rule is: consequence! What the cat is not allowed to do, it should not be allowed from the beginning without exceptions. Once the cat has conquered the bed, successfully loses a treat from the table or whistles the claw on the wallpaper with impunity, she will not understand why she suddenly should not do it anymore. It is especially important to be clear about what you want to allow his velvet paw and what not. Because a cat realizes quite quickly whether one means it seriously or only half-heartedly and will react accordingly – or just not. 

The second rule is: Praise much, do little punishment. Does the cat have a desired behavior?You may praise her once more often. Unwanted behavior can be punished with acoustic signals such as a loud “no” or with direct stimuli such as blowing on or – in the case of special bullying – spraying with the water bottle. It is important that the punishment happens immediately after the unwanted behavior, otherwise the cat does not understand it. Under no circumstances may violence be used! However, anyone who punishes immediately with every little thing, risks the punishment wears off and is ignored by the cat at some point. That’s why you should rather define a few rules for yourself and enforce consistently, as wanting to enforce too many things at once. 

Also, do not forget to offer the cat alternatives. Natural cat behavior such as scratching, jumping, climbing and playing wildly cannot be put off. Therefore, it is important to know the natural behavior of the cat and give her opportunities to live it out. The scratching of objects cannot be weaned off a cat, for example. But you can teach her to scratch her scratching post and not the sofa. Of course, the alternative should not only be attractive to humans, but also to the cat. With a small scratching post in the farthest corner of the corridor, the cat is more difficult to keep from scratching the sofa than, for example, with a large scratching post in the middle of the living room. 

Boredom in the Hamster Cage

Unfortunately, it often happens that hamsters (but also hamsters in general) start to behave in a strange way. What may look cute or clumsy at first glance may, at second glance, be a behavioral disorder. 

A behavioral disorder can have many different faces. For example, if the hamster looks very apathetic, shows no interest in life all around, if he runs constantly in a circle, very little eats (Caution: this could be a disease!) Or gnawing at the cage. 

The latter may well be a term for some hamster owners. However, many people are unaware that this is really a behavioral disorder behind it or is currently approaching. It’s also not that you could not “stop” the hamster again. On the contrary. 

Just inexperienced hamster owners mean that the hamster might itch on their teeth, hunger or want to get out of the cage. The assumption that the little guy wants to get out of his cage is not that wrong. 

Unfortunately, it is still possible to buy cages that are too small. These standard cages of 30 cm in length and 15 cm in width are animal cruelty! Dwarf hamsters are animals that go looking for food at night, thereby covering long distances and thereby satisfying their enormous urge to move. With a cage of the size 30 x 15 cm this should hardly be possible! 

That all hamster species in a malposition, such. B. a small cage (minimum size hamster 100 x 50 x 50 cm, middle hamsters 120 x 60 x 50 cm) develop a kind of behavioral disorder is not surprising. 

It also plays a big role in how varied the cage has been designed. If the dwarf hamster does not find different things in it like hiding places, climbing facilities, sand baths, wooden houses and nagging possibilities, his life in a limited cage quickly becomes boring. Especially if he has no other way to an outlet in the apartment or a secure area. 

A loving and responsible hamster owner should therefore pay attention to the following things: 

  1. Provide the hamster with a sufficiently high amount of scattered litter in which he can dig at least 10cm deep and create aisles. Generally speaking, the deeper the better! 
  2. To offer him sufficient and diverse hiding places such as a wooden house, roots, grass nests, tunnels and corridors. 
  3. Also, the cage should be regularly “spiced up”. Simply by changing the setup. Then the ways to and from the bird feeder are completely different than before. That provides variety! 
  4. Also, the furnishings should be replaced regularly. On the one hand, that sometimes a new smell comes back into the cage, on the other hand, because it makes the hamster much fun to explore new furnishing items. 
  5. Spout is the nuts and bolts. The cage can be designed so lovingly and varied, but against daily spill something can not keep up. The spout should in any case be escape-proof and hazard-free and never take place without supervision! 
  6. Of course, great attention is also on the furnishings of the spout: hiding, climbing and digging possibilities must not be missed here either. 
  7. In addition, a species-appropriate and balanced diet plays a major role. Only when the hamster gets healthy nutrients, it also takes a big part in everything that happens around it, is alert and alert. A real little nose. 
  8. And of course not to forget: to take care of the hamster. Talk to him, feed him by hand, watch him (also to recognize early diseases, for example). 

Many of these points are very simple and easy to implement. In the interest of his rodent, therefore, one should do everything to make life in captivity as species-appropriate, varied and unique as possible! 

Of course, these points regarding the care, the spout and feeding should be decided BEFORE buying the hamster. Because even a small animal like the hamster costs a lot of time and also brings a lot of effort with it. 

In order to spare a hamster a behavioral disorder, it is important to be responsive to its needs and to fulfill them as much as possible. So the little guy definitely spends a great hamster life with his human. 

How to Deal with a Biting Hamster

You are so happy when you bring a small hamster home, that you would like to observe and touch it all day long. But beware: this is exactly the wrong approach! 

When a hamster moves in at home, it’s especially important to set up the cage in advance so you do not have to spend a lot of time at home and the hamster has to wait in its transport box for it to be done. Especially the stay in this unknown box, the new smells and noises cause him great discomfort, he stands by the move under stress. 

If the hamster is placed in his cage at home, the most important rule is to leave him alone. There should be no loud noises or fast movements around it, as well as the first five to seven days should not try to take him on the hand, without the hamster climbs alone on the hand. 

What happens if you want to forcibly take the hamster up without first being able to get used to your human being without building trust and having no certainty that hopefully nothing bad will happen to him? His first reaction will be an attempt to escape, but if he does not succeed, the little guy will try to defend himself with all his resources and powers: And best of all with his gnawed teeth, which can hurt a lot if you bite correctly! 

So what’s the best way to teach your hamster from the beginning that he does not need to be afraid of you? 

As mentioned above, it is therefore not only useful, but also necessary to let the little guy on his first day in the new home first his peace. So he can look around without pressure in the new cage, pursue the new, interesting smells dig the first tunnel in the new, high-strewn litter. The hamster gets to know his new environment without stress, can sniff and smell the bars without any danger, and there would be something to admire outside the cage. It should also be ensured that a second animal, such as a dog or a cat, is not in the same room with the hamster and is generally never left alone with him. Both should always be in separate rooms without supervision! 

Nevertheless, the little hamster needs daily fresh food and water. If you give him that, then speak to him in a calm voice so he can meet you. In addition to the food and the water you should do nothing again and respect his indulgence phase of five to seven days. Only then can you slowly start to lure him with treats or place your hand in the middle of the cage so he can explore it. If the hamster accepts your hand, then you can try to lure it with a treat on your hand (without moving your hand or raising it, that would only scare it). 

The better the little rascal gets used to you, the better you can dare to try something new to attract him. 

Small tip: If you want to pick it up, then you should not reach for it with one hand from above and put the hand first around his back and then around his stomach, but with two hands he would take it into a kind of “cave”. In that case, he does not associate that with an aerial attack, such as when a bird tries to grab it. 

If you follow these easy rules and the time to settle in, it will not be difficult to get the hamster hand-tamed in a short time – without frightening him. 

However, if you have overlooked this or are handling the hamster too quickly and rudely, then it is quite possible that he will fight back with his teeth and let you know that he does not like it or is very afraid. Do not blame him because he’s a little guy after all and you’re a big person he does not know what to think about. If he tweaks, then be careful that you do not drop the hamster out of sheer fright then! That can possibly end badly. 

If a hamster has been living with you for some time and is still biting and / or resisting, then you can start again from the beginning with the approach. Leave him alone for a few days, just give him food and fresh water. Approach it very carefully and speak calmly with it. Keep in mind, however, that it may take a little longer for the hamster to have confidence in you, as he has known for some time that he is not afraid to get out of the cage. 

But not always a hamster-human relationship succeeds – unfortunately. Some hamsters never become tame, always remain loners and are always afraid of their human being. But you should not be angry with them. Each hamster is an individual and has – just like us – his own head. 

Nevertheless, I think that you do not bring a hamster home in the first place to cuddle or cuddle with him. A hamster, like almost every pet, has actually been a wild animal that has been “adapted” by breeding to humans or humans. His proximity to humans is not in its original nature. This is why it is not only necessary to make the cage suitable for the species and big enough, but also to accept its peculiarities. 

Individual Cat Education

Every cat is an individual and just as individual is their education. Those who master the basic rules of cat education know that not every cat responds equally well to every educational method. For example, in the reward of desired behavior: Although a treat is a much sought-after reward for most cats, some cats are happy about a petting or just a little encouragement much more. 

This is similar with the punishment of unwanted behavior: A sensitive cat can be very scared by loud calls at unwanted behavior, while the boor cat in the same household even ignored the water pistol. In both cases, the punishment does not achieve the desired goal, but the opposite: The frightened shy cat closes for fear of any further educational methods and the lout hangover is becoming increasingly resistant to such. It is therefore not only important to reward and punish at the right time, but to tailor the methods to the particular cat. But sometimes that means you have to go other ways than punishment and reward. 

So, before you lose your patience, it sometimes helps to clear away fragile things and try again a few months later. If the cat still jumps on the table after months of unsuccessful attempts at education, double sided tape can help in the short term to spoil the cat. And if no attempt at education is so fruitful, one should also think about what causes the unwanted behavior of the cat could have. 

Some cats hope for more attention through misconduct. Any punishment would satisfy the cat’s desire, which is why in this case it will achieve exactly the opposite. Here it helps to ignore misconduct and otherwise exploit the cat. For example, with intelligence games or clicker training. At the latter, some cats even have so much fun that they can eventually make so many dogs in terms of tricks and obedience competition and thus prove: If you know how, let cats educate and even sometimes very happy!